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Modifying Roundhouse Millie Part 2

25/8/2012

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The buffer beams were cut to the shape of the overlays using a mini drill and cutting disc. The overlays were then bolted to the buffer beams using the coupling fixing bolts. The outer ends of the overlays were glued to the buffer beams with silicone adhesive to prevent them from curving outwards. A fixing hole was drilled in each buffer beam to take the vacuum brake pipes.
Picture
One buffer beam cut to shape and fitted with the overlay. The other one is marked out ready for cutting.
Picture
Summerlands chuff pipe fitted. Brass angle in place to give the impression of a running plate.
The exhaust pipes were cut down and a Summerlands chuff pipe was fitted over the ends of these. 3/16" brass angle was cut to length and epoxied under the cab floor and front running plate to give the impression that the running plate extends for the length of the loco. This should look more convincing when the side tanks are back in place.
The regulator handle was removed from its spindle and after a bit of straightening, it was put back the other way round, with the lever at the back of the mounting bush. This was done to enable the dirver (a Brandbright 'Roger' minus pony tail) to fit in the very cramped cab.

The rivets holding the smokebox together were drilled out and replaced with 8BA bolts and nuts. The top front corners on the side tanks and the gaps between the smokebox sides and frontplate were filled with Milliput. Prepainted Roundhouse cylinder covers were clipped over the cylinders.

I had purchased some cast cab steps to replace the existing 'stirrups' but decided not to use them as they may prove to be a bit fragile. Instead I epoxied short lengths of 3/16" brass angle to the bottom of the 'stirrups' to represent steps.

The exposed brasswork including the top of the chuff pipe. boiler bands, chimney cap and gas valve in the cab were given a coat of self etch black primer.
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